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Understanding Washing Machines and Caring for Saddle Sox

Not All Washing Machines are Created Equal

It’s important to recognize that different washing machines have distinct functionalities. While this may seem like common knowledge, what might not be immediately evident is the potential harm that eco-friendly washing machines can cause to items like Saddle Sox, wool saddle rugs, and pads.


Traditional Top-Loaders vs. Eco-Friendly Washers

Let’s begin with the conventional approach, the one that has stood the test of time for washing Saddle Sox. For synthetic Sox, a machine wash and tumble dry have always sufficed. This method remains effective for old-fashioned top-loaders. You can adjust the water level (low, medium, or high), and if you’ve forgotten to add an item, it’s easily accommodated. These machines utilize enough water to thoroughly saturate the fibers, and the agitation helps maintain the integrity of the felt. However, the key factor here is the water level.

On the other hand, in eco washers, which determine water usage based on load weight, there’s simply not enough water to adequately wash any saddle sox without jeopardizing the wool felt within. This might not be common knowledge because many, like myself, have a fondness for their old Kenmore washers that allow for manual water adjustment to suit the load type. These machines don’t lock you out once the cycle begins, ensuring that there’s enough water to make the items inside truly wet. I’ve often wondered how a wash cycle with minimal water actually achieves cleanliness, be it for clothes or anything else.


Eco-Friendly Machines and Wool Care

If you own one of these modern, eco-friendly machines, ones that conserve water and lock you out after the cycle initiates, refrain from washing your Saddle Sox, or any other wool felted pad or rug, in them. The water levels will always fall short for proper felt washing.


Caring for Saddle Sox in Eco-Friendly Washers

For those in the eco-friendly washing machine camp, the process for washing your Saddle Sox aligns with how you’d care for Merino Wool or Sheepskin Saddle Sox.

Here’s a straightforward guide:

  1. Brush off any large debris with a grooming brush.
  2. Fill a tub or spacious sink, allowing ample room for full immersion of the sox, with water and Eucalan Soap.
  3. Let them soak for a minimum of 30 minutes, up to overnight. Then, squeeze out any excess water. (Note: If you think they need additional soaks you can repeat this process, never rinsing, until the Sox are clean and then you can spin them out. Personally I have done this up to 5 times on some Sox I have received in for cleaning.)
  4. Place them in the washer, using only the spin cycle to extract remaining moisture.
  5. Finally, let them air dry on a flat surface, ideally in the sun.

Understanding Felt and Water Interaction

Now, some of you might be curious about why a scarcity of water can have such a detrimental effect on felt. The reason lies in the pivotal role that water plays in maintaining the integrity of felt. Without sufficient water, it’s akin to subjecting the felt to repeated shakes by dogs. The fibers begin to disengage, causing shedding and a loss of the felt’s cohesion.


Felting Techniques

To truly grasp how felting occurs, it’s worth noting there are several techniques. One involves the use of needles, a craft in itself where intricate creations are fashioned from felted wool. Another method entails soaking the wool in warm water, followed by agitation and/or needling, and then transitioning to cold water while continuing the process.


The Consequences of Insufficient Water Usage

When water is used minimally, only to slightly dampen the items, all the integrity painstakingly established during the felting process is compromised, resulting in a lumpy, unfelted mess.

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Perform a Safety Check on Your Saddle

Performing a Safety Check on Your Saddle.  This is one thing that I see neglected often among riders.

This is not for lack of caring for their own safety or their horse’s.  I have found that it is because they were never shown.

I was lucky as a growing equestrian at the tender age of 7, that my riding instructor was thorough as she was tough.

The first things I learned were all about safety.  From how to behave around horses to how to check my tack for wear and straps for integrity.

I found this knowledge has served me well over the years.  Like the old man in Mark Rashid’s books, my first riding instructor shaped me as a horsewoman for ever.  

This short series of videos goes over what a safety check is and how it is performed on a saddle.

Cathy Tauer of Hill View Farms, shows us how to perform a safety check on your saddle and some additional things to look for.   

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How to Saddle with a Flexible Panel Saddle

I am contacted almost everyday from folks that have picked up a pre-owned flexible panel saddle and have trouble their first time out with the saddle.

Sometimes this has to do with fit or functionality of the panels, but most of the time it has to do with placement of the saddle on the horse’s back.  

Because so many people have requested help with fitting a flexible panel saddle, I decided to dedicate an article to the subject. 

Sox vs a Pad or Rug

Rule number one, never use a pad or rug that is over ½ inch thick under any flexible panel saddle.  A thicker pad will prevent the panels from functioning.

Rule number two, when using anything other than Sox or Booties on a panel saddle you must tent the entire spine by pulling the pad or rug up into the spine of the saddle, from the front to the rear.

For optimal performance Sox or Booties are the best choice. Since Sox and Booties attach to each panel individually there is never any pad to mess with.  

You just saddle up. This will make you the envy of your riding friends as you saddle up in half the time. 

Saddle Placement

Saddle placement is where the first mistakes are made.  When you look at a panel saddle you need to ignore the panels.  

With a rigid tree saddle you place the front of the saddle bar 2-3 fingers behind the scapula. Think of the point at the swell base on a panel saddle as the front of the bar of a rigid tree saddle.  It is from there that you apply that 2-3 finger measurement. 

This will cause the panel to overlap the scapula by up to three inches. That is OK, because fingers are cut into the front of the panel that will allow that scapula full freedom of movement.

After placing the saddle, step back and make sure the saddle is level from swell/pommel to cantle.  If it is not level, then the placement is off or you may need shims.  (There are some extreme exceptions, but those are special cases.)

Cinching or Girthing up

Once the saddle is placed in the right spot and the top is level, it’s time to check and  adjust the rigging so that the girth or cinch will fall along the heart girth area on that horse. 

When adjusting the crossfire rigging, be sure that the tension is the same on both straps that attach to the saddle. If the tension is not even in the rigging straps it will cause an unstable feeling when riding. 

Rule number three when cinching/girthing up NEVER use one that has elastic attached to the buckles. Elastic cinches/girths will cause the saddle to ride like a car without shocks because the panels provide the give that the elastic would be providing to a rigid tree saddle.

So how tight do you tighten a saddle like this? 

My best description is you tighten like you always have and then just a lil bit more. Basically, you are over tightening a little bit. Once in the saddle, reach down and feel the difference. You’ll notice that the cinch or girth is not as tight as it was, that’s the flex of the panel.

 While saddling this type of saddle is different, it really isn’t that different from what you were taught, so don’t let it overwhelm you.

As always, if you have any questions never hesitate to contact me!

Or reach out to me on Facebook or Instagram

Photo courtesy of Carlee Strack

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Maintaining Your Panel Saddle

Maintaining a panel saddle

Why Regular Checks Are Important

Panel saddles are designed with moving parts that can wear out over time, especially if you use your saddle frequently or if you are a heavier rider. Maintaining your panel saddle to keep it in good working order, it’s important to perform regular checks and maintenance. Here’s what you need to know:

Check Your Saddle at Least Once a Year

Every saddle owner should inspect their saddle at least once a year, regardless of the type of saddle they own. If you ride more than 300 miles a year, it’s a good idea to check your panels and saddles about every 300 miles.

How to Perform a Panel Check

To check your saddle, flip it over on a saddle stand and remove its socks. Pull the panels up from the middle and take note of how loose they may be, if they are moving freely or if they are ‘sticky’ in their movement. If you notice any issues with your panels, such as side-to-side play, it’s important to contact Evolutionary Saddles as soon as possible.

After checking the movement of the panels, you will need to tip the saddle on its side to view the thrust bushings that look like washers between the panel and the mount that is in the saddle tree. Make sure the bushings are there.  If you don’t see those thrust bushings (washers) on each mount then you need to call me ASAP!  Then put only one drop of 3-in-1 household oil in between each mount and bushing.

The Tree

Never perform a tree check on a flexible panel saddle like you would a conventional saddle.  The conventional way of testing the tree itself for issues cannot be performed the same way as conventional saddles.  To perform a tree check on an Evolutionary saddle you are going to need a stair or step that you can use so that you can have the panels hang off the side of the stair so only the wood tree is taking any pressure that is put on it.  If you do it any other way, you will damage your panels.

Most tree issues on Evolutionary Saddles will be very readily apparent, because there is no rawhide holding things together as many of your very heavy western saddles have.  Which is why a tree check is so important for conventional western saddles. 

Ready to Ride!

Performing regular panel maintenance checks every 300 miles will keep your saddle in perfect working order.  It will keep your horse from dealing with poorly moving parts due to a missing thrust bushing (washer) or too much movement in the rear of the panel.  Saddle up! It’s time to go riding!!