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Understanding Washing Machines and Caring for Saddle Sox

Not All Washing Machines are Created Equal

It’s important to recognize that different washing machines have distinct functionalities. While this may seem like common knowledge, what might not be immediately evident is the potential harm that eco-friendly washing machines can cause to items like Saddle Sox, wool saddle rugs, and pads.


Traditional Top-Loaders vs. Eco-Friendly Washers

Let’s begin with the conventional approach, the one that has stood the test of time for washing Saddle Sox. For synthetic Sox, a machine wash and tumble dry have always sufficed. This method remains effective for old-fashioned top-loaders. You can adjust the water level (low, medium, or high), and if you’ve forgotten to add an item, it’s easily accommodated. These machines utilize enough water to thoroughly saturate the fibers, and the agitation helps maintain the integrity of the felt. However, the key factor here is the water level.

On the other hand, in eco washers, which determine water usage based on load weight, there’s simply not enough water to adequately wash any saddle sox without jeopardizing the wool felt within. This might not be common knowledge because many, like myself, have a fondness for their old Kenmore washers that allow for manual water adjustment to suit the load type. These machines don’t lock you out once the cycle begins, ensuring that there’s enough water to make the items inside truly wet. I’ve often wondered how a wash cycle with minimal water actually achieves cleanliness, be it for clothes or anything else.


Eco-Friendly Machines and Wool Care

If you own one of these modern, eco-friendly machines, ones that conserve water and lock you out after the cycle initiates, refrain from washing your Saddle Sox, or any other wool felted pad or rug, in them. The water levels will always fall short for proper felt washing.


Caring for Saddle Sox in Eco-Friendly Washers

For those in the eco-friendly washing machine camp, the process for washing your Saddle Sox aligns with how you’d care for Merino Wool or Sheepskin Saddle Sox.

Here’s a straightforward guide:

  1. Brush off any large debris with a grooming brush.
  2. Fill a tub or spacious sink, allowing ample room for full immersion of the sox, with water and Eucalan Soap.
  3. Let them soak for a minimum of 30 minutes, up to overnight. Then, squeeze out any excess water. (Note: If you think they need additional soaks you can repeat this process, never rinsing, until the Sox are clean and then you can spin them out. Personally I have done this up to 5 times on some Sox I have received in for cleaning.)
  4. Place them in the washer, using only the spin cycle to extract remaining moisture.
  5. Finally, let them air dry on a flat surface, ideally in the sun.

Understanding Felt and Water Interaction

Now, some of you might be curious about why a scarcity of water can have such a detrimental effect on felt. The reason lies in the pivotal role that water plays in maintaining the integrity of felt. Without sufficient water, it’s akin to subjecting the felt to repeated shakes by dogs. The fibers begin to disengage, causing shedding and a loss of the felt’s cohesion.


Felting Techniques

To truly grasp how felting occurs, it’s worth noting there are several techniques. One involves the use of needles, a craft in itself where intricate creations are fashioned from felted wool. Another method entails soaking the wool in warm water, followed by agitation and/or needling, and then transitioning to cold water while continuing the process.


The Consequences of Insufficient Water Usage

When water is used minimally, only to slightly dampen the items, all the integrity painstakingly established during the felting process is compromised, resulting in a lumpy, unfelted mess.

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Perform a Safety Check on Your Saddle

Performing a Safety Check on Your Saddle.  This is one thing that I see neglected often among riders.

This is not for lack of caring for their own safety or their horse’s.  I have found that it is because they were never shown.

I was lucky as a growing equestrian at the tender age of 7, that my riding instructor was thorough as she was tough.

The first things I learned were all about safety.  From how to behave around horses to how to check my tack for wear and straps for integrity.

I found this knowledge has served me well over the years.  Like the old man in Mark Rashid’s books, my first riding instructor shaped me as a horsewoman for ever.  

This short series of videos goes over what a safety check is and how it is performed on a saddle.

Cathy Tauer of Hill View Farms, shows us how to perform a safety check on your saddle and some additional things to look for.   

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Saddler’s Bloom or Mold?

What’s that white substance on my leather tack?

Upon encountering the white residue on saddles and tack, individuals often jump to the conclusion that it’s the notorious culprit of the leather world – mold.

However, the white substance you’re observing is likely not mold; it’s more accurately identified as Leather Bloom, Leather Spew, or Saddlers Bloom.

This whitish residue can manifest as either a powdery substance or even take on a waxy texture, its appearance contingent on the type of bloom occurring.

Is this bloom detrimental to my tack?

Fortunately, leather bloom is primarily a cosmetic issue and can be effortlessly eliminated by gently buffing it with a soft cloth or a horsehair shoeshine brush.

What brings about leather bloom?

From my personal experience and research, cold temperatures and low humidity emerge as primary catalysts for leather bloom. Even a meticulously cleaned, oiled, and conditioned saddle can develop bloom when placed in a cooler environment.

During the tanning process, hides are infused with fats, oils, and waxes, which sets the stage for certain types of leather to be more prone to blooming over time.

Every saddle has its distinctive character, reflecting the individuality of the leather derived from unique animals.

It’s important to note that bloom does not impair the functionality of the affected items. The optimal storage for saddles and leather goods involves a warm, dry location, ideally staying below 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Mold, however, poses a much graver threat. If unchecked, it can wreak havoc on your leather tack, consuming the fats and oils present in the material.

What’s responsible for mold growth?

Like most fungi, mold thrives in warm, damp conditions, requiring sustenance for survival. Maintaining a clean saddle and avoiding excessive oiling can act as deterrents against mold development.

Avoid storing your saddle in basements, as even finished basements tend to have elevated humidity levels.

For individuals residing in excessively humid regions, providing ample airflow around the saddle is pivotal. Fungi thrive in environments lacking proper oxygen levels.

Refrain from placing a damp saddle pad over your saddle, especially in high humidity zones. This practice can invite trouble.

Addressing mold infestations

Eradicating mold is feasible with the use of white vinegar, a potent fungus and mold eliminator. While diluted alcohol is also an option, it’s more abrasive and could harm the leather’s finish and color.

Following mold removal, allow the leather components to thoroughly air-dry for at least an hour. A well-ventilated area or even a fan’s breeze can expedite the drying process.

Mold despises fresh air. After being treated with white vinegar and exposed to the open air, the mold should perish. With proper storage practices moving forward, mold recurrence can be minimized.

Once the saddle or tack is completely dry, you can proceed with conditioning and polishing. However, avoid applying oil at this stage to prevent nourishing potential new fungal growth.

Prevention is paramount

Dealing with either bloom or mold can be frustrating, as both diminish the aesthetics of the saddle. While bloom isn’t “dirty” like mold, it can still mar the appearance.

To mitigate these issues, adhere to the following guidelines:

  • Store leather tack and saddles in environments between 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Ensure proper airflow around the saddle.
  • Shield the saddle with a sheet or large pillowcase to ward off dust.

I hold yearly Saddle Care workshops both in person and online as well. 

If you would like to be the first to hear about these sign up!

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De-Dazzle Saddle Contest! – WE HAVE A WINNER!!

Recently we were brought a saddle for cleaning and what we have come to call de-dazzling.  It inspired the De-Dazzle Saddle Contest! I know that there are some saddle makers that will do this per a customers request.  This was a DIY job that I thought was going to be a disaster and it turned out far better than we could have imagined. 

Before De-Dazzling

As you can see this silver was covered and hadn’t been polished in some time. As we took off the dazzles we collected them. Granted some went flying across the shop as they were popped off, but I can assure you that we attempted to get them all in the jar as we went. One of my neighbors even crawled around a bit on the floor to find any strays we missed.

So we got them all off, there was a lot of glue. At first we thought that the plating of the silver has started to wear and that is why they dazzled it. But after taking an hour, a q-tip, some acetone and a polishing cloth it was discovered that the silver was in great shape!

Partially De-Dazzled

The Final Shine

Finally when all the glue and dazzles were off, the polishing commenced. We were left with a blindingly shiny saddle that the pictures do not do it justice. Mirror like shine.

The Contest

The De-dazzle Saddle is a Dale Chavez Show saddle that was custom made when it was first built. It has its original silver which was in great shape and shined up beautifully. I just wish I had a photo booth that would have done it some justice. You really could see yourself in it.

In the comments section of this page put in your answer to the question. How many gems are in the jar?

The contest will run from the day this is posted until May 20th, 2023. When a winner will be declared closest to the number in the jar without going over!

There will be one winner declared who will receive a Grooming Zippered Carry-All that can be used for much more than just grooming supplies! Also included is one of our Hand-Held Flow-Through Body Brush- DELUXE that you can screw on the end of a hose! I’m also going toss in our Trail Bells. You can tie them onto any saddle or backpack to notify the wildlife around you! This prize has a value of over $40!!

AND THE WINNER IS!!!!

Michelle Ellis!!!! You were the closest without going over… Although you were shy by more than a few.

The number of gems that were on that saddle that made it into that jars was 1,079 GEMS!!!

Thank you to everyone for participating!!

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Maintaining Your Panel Saddle

Maintaining a panel saddle

Why Regular Checks Are Important

Panel saddles are designed with moving parts that can wear out over time, especially if you use your saddle frequently or if you are a heavier rider. Maintaining your panel saddle to keep it in good working order, it’s important to perform regular checks and maintenance. Here’s what you need to know:

Check Your Saddle at Least Once a Year

Every saddle owner should inspect their saddle at least once a year, regardless of the type of saddle they own. If you ride more than 300 miles a year, it’s a good idea to check your panels and saddles about every 300 miles.

How to Perform a Panel Check

To check your saddle, flip it over on a saddle stand and remove its socks. Pull the panels up from the middle and take note of how loose they may be, if they are moving freely or if they are ‘sticky’ in their movement. If you notice any issues with your panels, such as side-to-side play, it’s important to contact Evolutionary Saddles as soon as possible.

After checking the movement of the panels, you will need to tip the saddle on its side to view the thrust bushings that look like washers between the panel and the mount that is in the saddle tree. Make sure the bushings are there.  If you don’t see those thrust bushings (washers) on each mount then you need to call me ASAP!  Then put only one drop of 3-in-1 household oil in between each mount and bushing.

The Tree

Never perform a tree check on a flexible panel saddle like you would a conventional saddle.  The conventional way of testing the tree itself for issues cannot be performed the same way as conventional saddles.  To perform a tree check on an Evolutionary saddle you are going to need a stair or step that you can use so that you can have the panels hang off the side of the stair so only the wood tree is taking any pressure that is put on it.  If you do it any other way, you will damage your panels.

Most tree issues on Evolutionary Saddles will be very readily apparent, because there is no rawhide holding things together as many of your very heavy western saddles have.  Which is why a tree check is so important for conventional western saddles. 

Ready to Ride!

Performing regular panel maintenance checks every 300 miles will keep your saddle in perfect working order.  It will keep your horse from dealing with poorly moving parts due to a missing thrust bushing (washer) or too much movement in the rear of the panel.  Saddle up! It’s time to go riding!!